What does it mean to Surf Life? I have to explain what fun the surfing experience can be. I will tell you how you can make surfing your lifestyle and how you can surf life in just about everything you do.
If you play golf, chances are you will mishit a shot, miss an important putt, or screw up badly on a hole and end up with a bad score. It will probably make you mad. I’ve seen golfers get so upset that they throw or break their golf club after a bad shot.
Surfing is something that can sure help you do this. Surfing improves the quality of one’s life.
One thing you probably never heard of is surfing a pillow case filled with air. We would wet the pillow case and the run down the beach to fill it with air, spinning the end into a knot to hold the air in the case for one wave.
It wasn’t uncommon to take off on a wave and have as many as 5 of your fellow surfers on the same wave. Everyone just seemed to have fun. The other thing that was fun was helping the other surfers improve by telling them what they were doing and complementing them on their surfing.
Take these feelings with you into the world around you and into your personal and business life and then you will know what it means to Surf Life. You will learn to relax when you get into a difficult situation. You will stop stressing out when someone cuts you off on the freeway.
Surfing leads to beach parties, barbeques, and other social events. You are in the water feeling the spray on your face, breathing the fresh air, and in a wonderful state of mind.
What makes you happy and successful in life, marriage, and your job? I think that whatever you are doing you should enjoy, just like you enjoy surfing.
Get yourself a Woodie car or a good surf vehicle. All of these things go with surfing.
Well, this doesn’t happen in surfing. You may fall off of your board and get wiped out, but it is fun.
Surfing is really a fun sport. There are all kinds of amateur contests or you can treat it as a sport each day you surf even though you are not in a contest against others.
Surfing was fun and we carried that over into board surfing. Today, wherever there is a wave, it will be surfed.
Maybe this free spirit was brought to us from Hawaii originally by Duke Kahanamoku. He brought the Aloha Spirit to the shores of California and the rest of the world. This spirit is what I talk about and want to share with you when I talk about how we should all Surf Life.
Since the very early years of my life, my parents took me and my brother to the beach and taught us how to bodysurf. We surfed as a family. My mom and dad could do it and they took the time to teach us.
My friends, go surfing and learn to Surf Life! Both are a blast!
Chuck Herpick, a Stanford graduate and former Naval Aviator, is an accomplished surfer and has spent his lifetime in or near the ocean surfing most of the California and Hawaii breaks over the many years.
What does it mean to Surf Life? I will tell you how you can make surfing your lifestyle and how you can surf life in just about everything you do.
Surfing was fun and we carried that over into board surfing. Surfing improves the quality of one’s life.
Take these feelings with you into the world around you and into your personal and business life and then you will know what it means to Surf Life.
Chuck has been a friend and associate with legendary surfer Tom Morey, inventor of the Morey Boogie Board. Together, he and Tom have designed and made many different types of soft and hard surfboards and other surfing products.